Russ Roberts' Voyage to the BVIs
November 2007

 

I can definitely identify with this statement from the article.

Ken had to climb his mast once in the middle of the night, in twenty-foot waves and thirty knots of wind, to free a snagged line. "You have to go," he said. "It's that or have your mast come down. Then there are times that are much worse, when you're safe down below, but the conditions are so extreme you think, Nothing can handle this, and you just wait for the boat to break. But a funny thing happens. You get complacent. There's an acclimation that happens out there, where what would seem crazy to most people starts to seem normal. You saw fifty knots of wind and twenty-foot seas yesterday, so seeing sixty knots and thirty-footers today doesn't seem so bad."

It seemed surreal at first as you would leave the helm after racing down waves in 40+ winds and 15-20' seas to the cabin below to try and rest.  You feel the boat racing like a rocket ship with the sound thunder from wind ripping through the rigging, the creeks, the moans, the water racing by.   The lee straps would catch you, holding you in the bunk as the boat would heel as it started to round up with a wave pushing her sideways.  You would start to think where is the life raft,  the EPIRB, the ditch bag, who gets what, will it be cold.   This would happen hour after hour until your mind would reset.  The noises and motions that first bother you became common like familiar sounds of your car - the ones others can hear but you accept as normal.  Before long what at first seems like the boat is tearing apart becomes normal until the wind increases and new sounds echoed inside your head once again reminding you - its not normal.  Once again you enter a state where you expect the rigging to fail and wait for the explosion of the mast snapping and coming crashing down.  This goes on for hours and you reach a stage where you become so desensitized to the chaos that it is actually calming and your brain slows down as if pitching, rolling, deafening sounds and the fear of the boat breaking up fade away.  Chaos becomes normal and the seconds of calm as the gusts ease slightly are brief periods of a life you used to know.  You no longer hope that it stops but that is just doesn't get worse.  You look across to your crew mate and without word convey its going to be ok - the boat can take much more than us.  It is your mind you are struggling with now.

And then it happens with the wind begins to howl like a banshee.  Its like the point in a marathon when you break through the pain and persistent desire to quit into a third wind and your body is so full of adrenaline that you become numb.  You realize now that you cannot turn off the TV, you can't stop the car, you can't wake from this nightmare and you accept what fate is coming.  You become calm and relaxed as if you are already sitting on the beach listening the water lapping at the shore and pain in your shoulders from endless hours at the helm is the sun warming you.   You start to laugh at the silliness and seriousness of it and turn to your mate and yell - GREAT VACATION AY MATE!   He looks back and says.  WOULDN'T HAVE IT ANY OTHER WAY - ANY CHANCE OF A RATION OF RUM!  Now that sounds great but you don't need any drugs at this point because you've been on working off your own bodies natural high for some time.  Your back at the helm now feeling every muscle in your body and keeping you head from hitting the helm as the desire for sleep is past overwhelming and bordering on hallucination.

Just then the wind starts to subside like the gates on a huge damn are slowly being closed.   First the constant howling from the wind in the rigging goes from deafening to the thunder of a tornado passing by and then moving away.   The rain subsides and the wind continues to die and the boat slows and the creeks and moans can be heard again.  The seas are still churning but it all just seems like another day at sea when you hit the bottom of a wave and see nothing but dark water 360 degrees and then endless sea 360 degree at the top of the next wave.  The winds are down to  30 knts now and it like light air racing on the river.   The sounds of the wind through the rigging sound like gentle rushing water rather than a grinder cutting through steel.   You think you are floating - in a dream.  Or are you a sleep now?  You come back in a instant when your mate taps you on the shoulder as says, "I can take over now".   Another hour and a half just went by and its time to rest. 

Your head hits the pillow and you are gone immediately in the silence and familiar surrounding below deck.  You wake to an eerie calmness as if the boat is not moving - tied to a dock.   You jump up thinking something must be wrong and poke your head through the companionway.   The wind has completely died off the the seas are starting to calm.  Your still numb but time seems have stopped.  You feel yourself breathing again and your body goes limp.   For a split second you think this is a dream then wonder if the chaos you've been going through for the past eight hours was a dream.  Neither is true and both are true - its all in the past.  You drift back below to your bunk checking your watch for how long you dosed off - three hours.  Time for you to get ready for your shift again.   You look at your mate again sleeping peacefully and think to yourself.    Life's great but a little at a time please. 

Postscript - Reread this story a few times to get a sense of what it was like.  I've been asked many times if I would do it again.  I have to say yes and no.  Don't really know why yet but starting to becoming clearer as I settled back into work. Cheers Mate!

 

Date: Wednesday 11/14/07

Time: 08:30

Position: 18.26N 24.45W Great Harbor BVI

Conditions: Clear skies, Calm, Winds E at 15knts

Passage Complete From Quantico, VA (38.30N 77.41W) to Jost Van Dyke BVI (18.26N 24.45W), 10 Days 7 hrs, 1600nm

Just Another Day in Paradise

 Status: The crew of Fidelis sighted land yesterday at 12:50 and set anchor in Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke, BVI at 19:00 11/13/07.  The day at sea was not to be the easy arrival with clear skies and fair seas.  The crew of Fidelis was to face yet again two more major squalls and a final moderate squall just with 15 nm of landfall.  It was like a dream when St. Thomas appeared out of the misty, stormy horizon and the call –LAND HO!- only to disappear again behind a wall of storm clouds as the sea devil was ready for one “Last Dance” like the half dozen other dances, a couple lasting over 12 hours, we weathered before allowing Fidelis to rest.  We were forced to tack away from the island sailing parallel to the coast as the wind shifted south and built to 35 knots of the bow and the waves grew to 10 feet.  We fought the last battle patiently as we did the others knowing that whether 1500 miles or 15 miles from your destination anything can happen.  The squall finally passed but now it is nightfall and we had to maneuver the last ten miles around to the sound side of Jost Van Dyke and Great Harbor – the closet safe port.  The skies began to clear as we approached the island and the lights of St. Thomas, St Johns and Tortola lit up the night sky.  We navigated into the channel south of the island and quietly slipped into the harbor where at least 24 other boats, many of which held tired by happy crew that had successfully completed the passage.  We set anchor off of Foxys, the local watering hole.  Vince broke out a bottle of champagne and we toasted to the successful journey, the capable skipper and Fidelis for keeping us safe.  We then launched Dobby for the dinghy ride ashore.  As we departed the Fidelis anther boat, the Endorfin, was motoring into the harbor and hailed us.  This was the boat we had separated from before the first squall on Wednesday wanting to race.  They yelled out, “Ahoy Fidelis – it appears you have beat us to the prize.”  We set for shore and “painkillers” and the first taste of nectar we will have had since departing Quantico ten day earlier.  We rose with the sun as our bodies were still waking to the 1 ½ on 4 ½ of schedule was had been keeping to the beginning.  Now its time to rest. 
 

 

Date: 11/11/07

Time: 12:00

Position: 27.22N 67.25W 270nm NW Turks Islands, 380nm to VIs, ETA Tues Evening

Conditions: Clear blue skies, calm seas, Winds NE at 8-14Knts, Perfect day for reaching under spinnaker to VIs

Status: Entered long last reach at midnight last night.  We are getting payback now for taking the worst up front and its grand.  Flying luminous fish at night under the stars and clear calm seas during day.


Russ caught what appears to be similar to a barracuda but uglier. The highlight last evening while we were starting to grill dinner was a huge pod (30+) of dolphins jumping and racing along side the boat and dancing around each other off the bow.   The view up the mast ladder was memorable.   We've spotted several white flares being fired off at night but think it is just people having fun since they were not red distress signal flares and no distress radio calls.

Entertainment at Sea
- Trolling for fish while reaching
- More dolphins riding the bow wave
- Luminescent flying fish jumping along side the boat
- Watching a movie from the cockpit 600 miles off FL shore in a warm breeze
   and starry night


-Life at sea vs. life on land
- Trimming to shower in 35 degree heel -vs.- sitting in a sauna having a drink
- Having a billion stars to pick from to guide you –vs.- a back seat driver
-  Making your own drinking water –vs.- buying bottled water

Sailor Joke:

Russ and Vince just finished a 10 day ocean passage and had a few to many at a local water hole somewhere in the lower states.  They head back to the boat and turn up the railroad tracks.  After about 30 minutes of walking Russ turns to Vince and says.  Damn this ladder seems long.  Vince replies – that's not so bad but this rail seems so low.



Date: 11/10/07
Time: 09:00

Additional info from Russ, regarding some of his insights on the trip so far! Sounds like a good reality check--or at least parts of it ...

Entertainment at Sea
- Watching crew do dishes on reach in 25-20 knot winds - Pat's Dream
- Dolphins doing barrel rolls over each other while riding the bow wave
- Wing-N-wing at night like flying huge kite in space with stars up front
- Riding twenty foot swells in 25+ winds like a surf board
- Listening to everyone release tension thru uncontrollable laughing

Life at sea vs life on land
- Trimming sails 15' seas/20+  winds -vs.- yelling at persons who cut you off
   in rush hour traffic
- Taking helm after 20minutes sleep in 35 knt winds -vs.- leisurely cup Joe
after full night sleep
- Watching dolphins playing in bow waves -vs.- listening to neighbors dog barking
- Orion's Belt inline w/mast guiding you south -vs.- listening to auto GPS telling you
   to Turn Right!
- Life is felt moment by moment -vs.- Life goes by without notice